I have a 16 x 24 shop with a gable roof (8:12). I want to add a 12x16 addition coming out of the existing building. The result would be a building in the shape of an L. The existing building was framed with a false wall (existing 12" header for opening) to allow for this. I have a couple of questions:
1) To properly tie into the existing roof, do I have to remove the asphalt shingles before laying down the new rafters/ridge-board. If so, how far back? Can I just cut the shingles along a line or do I need to stagger them?
2) Can I cut the vinyl siding along a straight line or do I need to remove it in pieces staggaring the seams?
Roofing and siding will be done by contractors, I will do the framing. I just need to know how to do things so they can do their job when they get there....
Sounds to me from your questions that you should consult with a qualified building design professional.
I would chalk some referance lines and only take off shingles inside those lines.Takeing off more than what you need too would make matching up the existing shingles impossible.Lay down 2x8's on referance lines and nail compound miter cut rafter tails to them.Make the new roof also on a 8/12.Instead of weaving in the valley shingles.Use an open valley with heavy gauged rolled flashing spray painted.
as rescarpenter41 says chualk a line and ONLY take off shingles inside. I highly recomend a valley that is woven as long as shingle can be matched close, you are hireing this part done so tell your contractor to tie in valleys not cut in. as for the siding never cut a straight line stager it back. when you add an adition its supose to look like it was allways there not patched on. Tim; Rock Creekcontractor service inc.
Glad you brought this subject up because I want to add on to my house by enlarging my bedroom. I have had the same question about how to tie it into the existing roof. I saw it done on a house out by my parents, & that's when I found out you had to TEAR INTO THE ROOFLINE... YIKES... & tie it in that way.
I really didn't want to do that because I was sure it would greatly add to the expense of the remodel, but I don't guess there's any other way to do it. I was wondering if you could just butt it up to the roof & create a valley where the 2 meet. I mean, there are other valleys on roofs, aren't there ???
I don't know... I haven't really gotten an estimate because I'm afraid of how much it will cost. But thought I'd throw this out there. Sounds like you, & some of the others, know quite a lot.. especially if you drew up all your own plans... How about a consulation ???
BTW, I totally agree with you regarding the comments from tclear !!! Why does he think you're asking the question.. just to be told to consult a pro ?? I don't think so !!! haha
(No Husband/No Remodeling Experience !!! haha)
HAVEN'T A CLUE !!!
Great article/topic. My hat is off to you, Wicrules!
I'm in the thought process stages of extending a roof over my patio, which spans the length across the back of the house. The ext walls forms almost a square, as the back and front are 49'9" and the sides are 47'6". The hip roof has a very short ridge running parallel to the front / back walls. I'm not sure of the pitch, but it's steep(lots of attic space). The paver patio starts at and extends 10' out from the back wall and runs the full length of the back wall.
Tying a perpendicular ridge into the existing back roof seems logical. however, it seems that I cannot maintain the same distance at the top and bottom of the old roof surface on each side, if I want to cover the entire length of the patio. Should I place the new ridge at the same height as the existing ridge and maintain the distance from the existing hip on each side of the back roof as I make the cuts?
ps: is there economical software that can be used to draft this project, which will also develop a cut list? I have been looking at SketchUp Home, Chief Architect and Solidbuilder. I do plan to go into remodeling after retiring in a few years.
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