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Water in Basement - Outside fix not an option
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Like a lot of people here, I have a water issue in my basement. It is a poured concrete wall and the water comes from the wall/floor joint with some water coming in the cracks in the basement floor. BTW I only get water down there on a hard rain. I'd love to excavate the outside and waterproof the foundation wall and put in a drain tile but this isn't feasible because I have an attached garage that with a thickened slab on one end of my house so I know if I just dig the three sides I'm still going to get some water on that 4th side where the garage is connected.

Now I would love to finish my basement but obviously have to get this dealt with first. My plan is to seal the cracks in the floor (I haven't decided on what yet). I then plan to install ceremic tile on the whole basement floor, hopefully sealing the floor. Now I have to deal with the water coming in along the edge of the wall. I've thought about the baseboard method but I'm far from sold on that. I could do the interior drain tile but that seems like a lot of work for something that I'm not sure will work or not. I'm just going around in circles with this. I know folks have differing opinions on interior vs exterior fixes but realistically, those guys who have done interior work - have you seen pretty decent success rates? Being that the water seems to be coming up through the floor, I'm not even sure an outside fix would work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


General Contractor/Home Builder
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Jay: I don't like the baseboard systems,although I have seen some use them with limited sucess. I would suggest an interior gravel and tile system with the perforated tile plumbed to a sump pit[perforated, 30 in. deep and packed in clean gravel] That should be discharged away from the home to an existing drainage/wherever local code requires. It is a lot of work, but this is what is done in new homes in my area[Ohio]The tile should be next to the footer not on top of it, and should also be packed in clean washed gravel.I also like to use a 2 pump system, with the primary pump in the bottom of the crock,and the secondary pump a little higher. This way if the primary fails the secondary will pick up the slack.Some of My customers like to also have that secondary pump be a battery powered or d.c. pump in case of apower outage. You can find qualified contractors in your area that will be able to show you all the options available[inside,baseboard,outside] by going to www.nawsrc.org,it's a good source of info.Respectfully, Frank O'Pinion
 
Posts: 66 | Registered: 04 January 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wow frank, that is a great website, thanks a million.


General Contractor/Home Builder
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Before I typed this response I had to go and read some of your other posts to see who the heck you are. Dude, you really need to think before you spew words all over the place. I had a question, he answered. He gave me a website to check out and I did. I explained why exterior work would not work on the one side, simple I thought. In fact, I have free access to a backhoe and I would rather do it that way, it would be a **** of a lot easier than ripping apart the interior of my basement. But I'll be ****ed if I'm going to do three sides and still leave the one side vulnerable and have to do something else to deal with that other side. That makes no sense at all. Why are you so hostile on alternative ways of doing things? Heck I build houses for a living and I talk to my competition all the time about different ways of doing things, we even loan each other equipment.
You sound like you would rather club someone over the head rather than have a civilized conversation with them.
Oh and for the record - I authorize the owners of this site to disclose to you the location of my IP address, when you compare it to the other guy you think I am, you will see we are not the same people. I sincerely hope you are not as angry to your customers as you are on here, if so I see why you have time to be here all the time flaming people.


General Contractor/Home Builder
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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you people are messed up, obvious to me the games you play. not just here, talking about with homeowners, been proven throughout posts, keep em coming, not gonna bllcht me and some others.
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Don't mean to jump into the middle of anything, but I want just want to make the comment that if LWP lived anywhere close to PA, I'd hire him in a second to waterproof my basement from the outside before I'd let anyone talk me into allowing the water to come through the wall with the intent to divert it around the perimeter to the sump. Look up any inside companies on the BBB site. The complaints get resolved, but why so many complaints? I'm speaking generally and I realize that, but LWP has given me hope that come spring I can fix my problem myself without putting someone else's kid through college. Just my 2 cents.

JBuzz
 
Posts: 52 | Registered: 03 July 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You guys are sure getting personal, and that's a sure sign you're losing your arguments.

Without getting personal, I will advíse anyone who contemplates using ANY member of the NAWSRC to (1) check the names of the contractors you contemplate speaking to with the BBB, and determine if they are members, because BBB reports differently about members than they do about non-members, and (2) get a copy of any so-called warranty you might be offered IN ADVANCE of signing a contract, and read it carefully, and (3) read the posts in this forum of people who HAD those warranties and read how well it worked out for them. Also find out if the company or person you're dealing with has ever been in the same business under other names, and find out what those names were, and check THEM with BBB.

Then, ask for 10 references from each contractor, and after you get them, ignore them and ask for 10 more, and check with the second group of 10...forget the first group...anyone can give you a few good references, that might include a bunch of relatives. (For comparison, an architect I know very well gives a list of over 350 references whether asked for them or not; it includes every job he's ever done.)

Now, to answer JayinMinnesota...first, you don't KNOW that you will get water in the fourth side if you waterPROOF the three accessible sides. If no water enters there now, it isn't likely to enter there in the future. There is also no proven need to waterPROOF the entire other three sides...if you have cracks, open rod holes, tree roots or whatever causing leaks, you need to repair those parts of your walls, not the entire perimeter.

A simple means of testing has been outlined on this forum repeatedly, which will help narrow down the locations and causes of your problems. The advice I give you is no different from the advice always given by true waterPROOFers on this forum: DETERMINE the cause of the problem BEFORE deciding on a solution.
See how many of the snake oil salemen suggest that or are willing to help you do that. Why should they? They have a "solution" ready and waiting.

The problem is, their "solution" does NOT solve problems of water entry and possible mold issues, does NOT solve problems of possible radon gas entry, does NOT solve problems of insect and vermin entry. That doesn't sound like much of a solution to me, does it to you?

You'll go ahead and finish your basement, and the water happily keeps right on marching in, and the mold won't bother you at all, will it, because it will be carefully hidden behind wallboard. Oh, folks may sneeze a little or a lot, but maybe they put too much pepper on their hamburgers. Termites may come marching in the cracks that were never waterPROOFed, but they won't bother you either, they can nibble away behind your wallboard to their hearts' content. Radon gas might continue permeating your basement, but that's okay, you'll probably sell your house before you or any of your family get cancer.

It's your choice, of course, Jay. I can rest easier now that I've made some truths known to you before you make your choice.
These truths have NEVER been countered by the inside band-aid snake oil crew...NEVER. All they have been able to do is unload personal attacks against people who spend their time here for free trying to help people who need help. Perhaps if they had entered into calm and reasoned discussion, and raised valid points to counter the truths that have been repeatedly set forth here, they might have some credibility, but they did not, and they CANnot, and their descent into the realm of personal attacks speaks VOLUMES about their character and their business practices, AND the value of their "solutions".


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2870 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Basementguy,

watch your step twinkle toes

you have some nerve that at 29 years of age, somehow think you have garnered more knowledge than myself and some other who`ve been in this business for as long as you`ve been on this planet. And your calling ME...shady? lolol tell ya what, there is NOT a MORE honest waterproofing contractor on this earth! Certainly Not YOU and not anyone within your org is more honest/fair/experienced, not 1.

as i`ve posted about inside waterdiverters/companies, i do believe i`ve shown others how shady/misleading many of them can be and are by posting LINKS, yeah, news links showing some of these scamming sobs. Cheating people out of their money.............now YOU SHOW-POST some links, PROVE to OTHERS that i`m shady....go ahead, waiting. Don`t talk.....SHOW me how shady i am?

it doesn`t matter how big/small a company is! If they defined the problem correctly and were hired to do the job then their 'system-method' will SOLVE the problem.

all i hear from you inside knotheads is how great an inside drain tile system is, and thats what homeowners need and bunch of other misleading garbage....yet, many of these homeowners have CONTINUED problems AFTER an Inside system was done... water still entering, damp-leaky wall(s), mold/efflorescence on part of bsmt wall,cracks in wall widening, wall bowing in more, problems w/sumps you people installed etc etc. Thats why many of YOU have customer complaints and, thats 10-20-50++ Complaints in the last 36 months for krsit sake, yeah sure, real great system you do, does everything you told the HO`s it would huh? BS!

and to top that, many of you bid/sell these Inside waterdiverting jobs for a ton! OVERPRICE a system that doesn`t stop/prevent water, mold etc. chtt, $5,000-$20,000 ! Many of YOU will/HAVE talked a HO who ONLY had 1 area of 1 wall leak/1 crack into a full inside perimeter system....hey, thet don`t NEED that! WHY sell these people CHTT they do not need, lol. i could go on and on.....dammmittt, many of these Inisde co`s are sooo full of crap.

Hey 'Secrest/Rehner'..... are you saying the City of Shaker Heights,your own home state Wink what they recommend on their website to their citizens is wrong? Are you saying Yoder Group is wrong? Are you saying Fairfax county is wrong? And what Tim C had printed in Chicago Trib, is that wrong too? what they have on their websites/in print i believe to be 90% or so true, thats based on nearly 3 decades of doing bsmt waterproofing...hmm, how long have YOU been in business doing Bsmt waterproofing? The BBB has your original start date as May 2000, so it appears your a spring chicken as to amount of actual expeience in this trade.

Know what else i think young man? Big Grin Big Grin you don`t like that FACT that i, or anyone else, disagrees who you-your ORG as to whats best for MOST HO who have leaky-moldy basements and, post link after link to back up what we know to be TRUE. Yep, you get angry because you have learned that...what you THOUGHT was the best system/method in dealing with damp/leaky basements simply is NOT true. I dont hold that against you or anyone else who has been misled by those who taught you about inside systems.

have stated over and over, you must have missed Wink of the Many reasons i won`t do inside systems--read em and LEARN something,it has nothing to do with whether i`m capable, lol, chtt...inside systems are easy! Much LESS laborious, and these systems SHOULD cost all HO`s ALOT Less money!

You people pay your laborers alot less, have alot less in materials yet...charge as much if not MORE than an outside method! Now, thats the damm truth!

One more thing for now Big Grin....hey, these awards many of you Inside people win, guess what.... Capizzo, Stremersch,Clark Water`g, Downriver Water`g and myself have NEVER won 1 award..ever! Thats 5 of the Most knowledgable and HONEST Waterprf`g contractors in America, never won 1 dang award, yet some of YOU inside people have won 2,5 whatever in the 3-8 years you`ve been in business and have 5-10+ BBB customer complaints, lolol. Something smells. know what,lol, keep your awards, win another 50 awards and keep putting that in your advertising,sounds good to the public doesn`t it! chtt, we could care less, we KNOW who is being honest with the public, we know the real reasons basements leak.

JBuzz, how ya doing mister? Wink

Basementguy, JBuzz himself learned years ago how to stop water from entering cracks in his bsmt wall! lol, yes he did! He and a couple buddys dug up ONLY the areas where his crack were, waterproofed them and...NO leak! Ask him if his wall(s) are bowing in now after only doing small areas. He didnt fall for the bllchtt lines from some Inside Co`s that he needed an Inside perimeter system, he simply fixed what-was-broke at that point in time on the Outside. Plus, he saved himself MONEY, lol, sure! Anything wrong with that Basement guy? See, if he`d HAD hired a company that wanted to do an Inside System, he then be out $5,000-$20,000 grand, and still have water entering through the cracks and possibly some mold/efflorescence etc. Go FIGURE Basementguy!

And maybe JBuzz will tell you what we charged him...verus an Inside system or even an injection which usually cost $400-600+ and are done by one(1) guy in about 1 hour, are very easy-no hard labor and nothing to haul away,no backfilling,no digging etc, AND about 50% of those injections will NOT last, will re-leak.

BACK up what YOU posted Mr Expert.... please prove to anyone reading this i`m a shady contractor, go ahead, post some links!
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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do much more than 'talk a good game' prove these FACTS in any courtroom. i believe that may be the one thing that`ll wake some of your butts up, get some unbiased media to focus on All-the-Facts,on whats best for most homeowners

oh Frank....you should get RID of that bs 'respectfully'.
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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lwp: yeah,yeah, I'll be out working on foundation and making my customers happy ,so I'll probably miss Your big time court/tv debut. Like I said before,take the time to learn about your industry. Go to www.nawsrc.org double Respectfully, Frank O'Pinion
 
Posts: 66 | Registered: 04 January 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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lose the 'respectfully' please
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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